Raymond draws his own conclusions about retaining wall construction

Raymond and I have discussed some of the aspects of building retaining walls over the past few weeks. One important factor is making sure you've had enough rest to carry you through a physically-demanding project.

Raymond drew this graphic to illustrate his opinion on the subject.

Reprinted by permission from Raymond Alexander Kukkee. Read Raymond's profile at Helium.com

copyright 2009 - reprints available on request
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For a fantastic, in-depth look at your retaining wall options, please visit Raymond Alexander Kukkee's Zone, Retaining walls and how to build them. Thanks to Raymond for this graphic.

Have you ever built a retaining wall of your own? Got pictures? Contact me here, to share them.

How to build a retaining wall with railroad ties

Retaining walls are can be beautiful or utilitarian. Materials choice matters.

By Raymond Alexander Kukkee

It's bright and sunny outside, and time to cut the grass again. You cut the side yard first, perfectly and evenly with the mower, and then look at the long grass in the back yard with trepidation. It is lawn that is far too steep and the soil is precariously eroded from endless water runoff. It is impossible to cut the grass safely with a lawnmower, so you haul out the weed whacker and start giving the treacherous area a tedious, crude haircut one more time.

You know you need a retaining wall but have procrastinated in building one, for the cost of manufactured, interlocking concrete stones commonly used to construct retaining walls is too high for your budget..

How can you build an inexpensive retaining wall?
The answer may be to build a retaining wall with railroad ties.

Where can you get railway ties?

Railroad ties, also called cross ties, are creosoted or chemically treated timbers that have been historically used to lay railway track all the way across North America. The treated wood ties resist decay for years but are eventually replaced as a matter of safety. Replacement may be with new timbers or the increasingly common concrete rail bedding ties. The replacement program has left millions of used and unused railway ties, switch timbers, and other large creosoted timbers available for other purposes including landscaping.

To find a source of railway ties, ask at your local building supply, landscapers, building contractors, or your nearest rail yard.

* Incidentally, do NOT feel free to help yourself to piles of ties you may happen to see along the railway tracks. Trespassing on railway property is both illegal and dangerous.
Buy railway ties from reputable contractors that often have contracts to legally remove hundreds, even thousands of ties at once, and do stockpile them for sale. Expect to pay higher prices for better quality timbers...

Read the rest of Raymond's retaining wall article at Helium.com

copyright 2009 Raymond Alexander Kukkee - reprints available upon request
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For a fantastic, in-depth look at your retaining wall options, please visit Raymond Alexander Kukkee's Zone, Retaining walls and how to build them. Thanks to Raymond for the photo shown with this article.

See this article as it appears on Helium.com

Read our previous article about building concrete or cinder block retaining walls.

We're collecting pictures of retaining walls that failed. Got one? Leave a comment here, or reach me via email.

How to build a concrete block retaining wall

Retaining walls are great for "terracing" your yard, or for reclaiming unusable lawn areas.

There was a time when cinder block retaining walls were all the rage. That was during post-war American building boom fifty years ago. Times have changed, and now these utilitarian walls more typically adorn commercial sites.

Somewhere in between, the use of once-popular cinder block lost ground to the more contemporary "concrete block." With the that change came a lot more options that once again made block retaining walls an attractive choice for suburban homeowners.

This isn't your grandfather's cinder block wall.

We've all seen those aging, crumbly cinder block constructions. That is exactly the image that convinced so many of us to choose more modern variations. Today, many landscapers prefer dry-laid walls composed of pre-cast concrete blocks designed specifically for the job. They're very pretty, easy to work with, AND extremely expensive. For those of us on a budget, choosing a cinder (concrete) block retaining wall could be just the right choice.

The block wall advantage:

Modern concrete block is inexpensive and very durable. It's widely available for home delivery, and offers unsurpassed strength in many applications. Today's cast block is available in a variety of dyed colors and an assortment of facing finishes, although both choices add to the cost. Block retaining walls are a good choice for long straight runs, especially for heights above 16" or so. They are perfect for perpendicular walls that meet at a 90 degree corner. You can, however, lay ordinary rectangular blocks in gentle concave or convex arcs.

But first, the disclaimer:

Laying block isn't an ideal DIY project. You can't easily do the job piecemeal, or without the correct tools. Mixing and applying mortar properly can be exhausting and frustrating. You'll need to start with a decent-quality footer, too. This isn't a half-weekend task that offers easy shortcuts. Let's have a look at what's involved...

Read the rest of the retaining wall story at Helium.com

copyright 2009 Jim Bessey - reprints available upon request
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For a fantastic, in-depth look at your retaining wall options, please visit Raymond Alexander Kukkee's Zone, Retaining walls and how to build them. Thanks to Raymond for the photo shown with this article.

See this story as it appears on Helium.com

We're collecting pictures of retaining walls that failed. Got one? Leave a comment here, or reach me via email.

Blending decks into yards and landscapes: Featured on NOVA Pros!

http://novapros.com/articles/featured/blending-decks-into-yards-and-landscapes/

The past twenty-five years has witnessed a phenomenal boom in the construction of big outdoor decks. Most of them are downright ugly. Many are unimaginative rectangles built with now-graying green lumber in a dull array of parallel lines. In an era of eight-foot privacy fences, plenty of homeowners don’t care how ordinary their backyard refuges might appear to the neighbors. Some of us, however, want to achieve a lovely flow from treated wood to lot-line woods, and wouldn’t dream of installing head-high solid blockades to hide our handiwork.

You can have your sprawling wooden deck, your table and chairs, the big umbrella, a giant $2,000 barbecue station, and even one of those hideous plastic weatherproof storage bins – you can have all this, and a beautiful backyard, too. Let the Jones’s next door stare all they want; theirs will be a look of admiration tinged with envy.

Keep reading...

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See this story as it originally appeared on Helium.com

copyright 2008 - Jim Bessey

Big tiles or small: which tiles are "just right" for your project?

What's more fun than doing a tile job? -- choosing the tile!

Shopping at tile stores is a sensory experience. So many shapes, sizes, textures, patterns and colors to choose from; it's enough to make you dizzy. At first it's easy:

"Love that! Love those! No way I'd use them!" But then comes, "-- oh, I like those, too. These would look great in our bathroom. So would these, over here."

And that's just in the first five minutes of browsing the tile displays. When you consider the combinations and permutations, there are actually more tile choices than there are paint colors at Sherwin-Williams. One way or another, you have to...

Narrow the field.

Most folks start with a color scheme and a budget. That cuts the possibilities by at least half. Still leaves a couple thousand potential selections. Move on to texture: smooth or "natural" surface? Glossy or matte finish? Now you're down to just a few hundred possible tiles.

Size matters.

Tiny, small, medium, large or giant -- which one feels just right to your eye? Many popular tile offerings are available in every size, from one-inch mosaics to 16" platters. That allows the tile manufacturer please a large range of customers. Let's ignore all those other options, and consider this question partly from the do-it-yourselfer's point of view.

Each tile size has a reason for its existence. Some trace their origins back to the Roman Baths and Ancient Greece. Other sizes were standardized during the post-war building boom. Still more were created to suit the appetites of modern mall builders, who wanted to cover larger areas with fewer tiles. The rest exist simply because they are aesthetically pleasing.

Here's the run-down:

• Tiny tiles: Sheeted mosaics offer intriguing patterns of color and shape. They're easy to work with in most cases, because they require less difficult cutting. Typical sizes include one- and two-inch squares as well as similarly-sized octagons or hexagons. (The latter are more difficult to cut and fit.) Small tiles are often best for small spaces like kitchen counter top backsplashes or powder room floors, or for use as inset borders. In addition, web-mounted tiles allow the manufacturer to create intricate patterns that wouldn't work well with larger tiles.

• "Subway tiles" (see photo) are usually glossy rectangles in a specific proportion: 2 to 1 or 3 to 1, as well as 5 to 3, are typical (but certainly not the only choices). These classic tiles make an elegant choice for traditional walls. Matching base coves, outside corners and edging ("bullnose") trims are usually available for each color and finish. Subway tiles are almost always ceramic -- lightweight, inexpensive, self-spacing, and easy to work with.

• Until recently, builders have preferred ceramic squares in 4" or 6" sizes (see photo). They chose earth tones or elemental colors for more universal customer appeal. These "simple squares" are low-cost and easy to cut and install. They can be self-spacing or moved apart for larger grout lines, as desired. Generally, even non-stock colors can be ordered on short notice. Because the geometry is straight-forward, these tile sizes lend themselves to "checker-board" designs or "picture-framed" border layouts.

• Larger rectangles offer a visual change-up from more familiar tile patterns. Standard sizes include 4 x 6, 6 x 8, and 8 x 10 (inches). These non-square tiles look great laid vertically, horizontally, and even in "brick"-style patterns. While ceramics are readily available, medium-sized tiles like this are more often displayed in porcelain lines. Porcelain tiles are heavier, more durable, less absorbent -- and harder to work with -- than standard ceramics. Installers will usually use tile spacers and cement-based "thin-set" mortar for best results.

• Big tiles start at 12" square and go up from there. One popular size is 13.5" square, which probably converts to some whole number of centimeters. Paver-sized tiles were once reserved for large rooms, commanding foyers, malls, and restaurants. Now they are one of the top choices by designers for contemporary homes. Large and giant tiles are heavy, expensive, subject to shipping damage, and more difficult to install.
• Preparation becomes critical as tile dimensions increase. DIY-level tile saws are often too small to accept these products for cutting. Layout can be tricky, to avoid weird edge-cuts and ungainly "L"s around corners. On the other hand, these (usually porcelain) tiles are incredibly durable, even for outdoor use. And they're gorgeous.

Which size is right for you? Consider room size, the level of complexity for layout (smaller tiles make layout easier, in general), and your skill level. In the end, your choice of tile size comes down to what "feels right" to you. Maybe you'll know it when you see it. When you consider all your options and choose the one that feels just right for you, you'll still be saying "I love it!" when the job is complete.

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved. Reprints available upon request.
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For more information about tile floors and walls, have a look at the DIY Tile Zone in Betaville, at Helium.com. If you have questions or other feedback, please leave a comment here or on the tile zone.

How to install ceramic floor tiles next to wood flooring

Ceramic tile floors form a natural complement to hardwood floors. The trick lies in how you transition from tile to wood. Since the two materials are so dissimilar, they expand and contract at very different rates. You should never simply butt new tile to an existing wood floor, or vice-versa. Let's look at the two most common scenarios.

A. Your new tile floor will be nearly the same height as the existing wood floor:

This occurs fairly often, since hardwood floors are generally 3/4" thick. Floor tile is often best laid over 1/2" cement board; add tile that's about a quarter-inch thick, and the two floors will be nearly equal. In this case you'll need some sort of simple expansion joint. ...

Read the rest of this article...

... [and]

B. Your new tile floor will be significantly higher than the existing wood floor:

This happens quite often, given tile's requirement for heavy, solid underlayment. Many wood-slat floors, typically of oak, are only 3/8" thick. It's not at all advisable to lay tile to match this thickness -- you'd have to omit the underlayment entirely, not a good idea!

Another common reason for a tile floor that's higher than wood is that you'll be covering up a portion of an existing hardwood floor by laying tile over-top. This is done to create a traffic-friendly foyer area where your front door enters directly on a wood-floored room. ...

Read the rest of this article...

Conclusion:

With careful planning and attention to detail, you can allow your new tile floor to peacefully coexist with your original wood floor. Your transition will be strong and aesthetically pleasing, while it protects your new tile from edge damage. Done properly, your tile to wood transition will last as long as either of these highly durable materials, and look great the entire time.

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved Read Jim's profile at Helium.com
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See this story as it appears on Helium.com

Wooden planter set makes a fine deck accessory

Most decks are boring until you add some jazzy details. A pair of wooden planters with a connecting corner bench did the trick at my house.

My oldest son and I found ourselves with a free afternoon last year. We had a small stockpile of materials left over from a project my partner had done for one of his customers. I did some measuring and calculating, and we had enough for a small project.

We trekked off to our local Lowe's to buy two square plastic plant containers and a box of color-matched screws. When we returned, we assembled a few basic tools, drew up some very basic plans on graph paper, and went straight to work.

Now our plain-Jane deck has a nifty and practical corner. The hostas add a very nice touch of green, too. My wife likes the bench -- it's her favorite spot to set out her potted plants for sunning.

Want to build your own? Read more comprehensive instructions in my Helium article, "How to build a wooden planter." You can use the picture as a general guideline, too, of course.

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved    Read Jim's profile at Helium.com
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Want to learn more? Head for Theresa and Raven's Container Gardening Zone to see a LOT more about turning your patio or deck into a paradise. 

If you have a project like this you'd like to share, please drop me a line.

Read about building planters on Helium.com

DIY Tile Pic of the Week: Find your tile niche

A custom tile niche evokes classic Roman charm in a bathroom.

When you choose tile for your bathtub or shower makeover, you might want to consider including a classic tile niche. This is not a project for the uninitiated! However, for design harmony and beauty, it's hard to beat.

The project shown used 12" by 12" porcelain tile, 3/8" thick -- not an easy tile to cut or install. Choosing a smaller, thinner ceramic tile reduces the level of difficulty significantly.

Typical "soapdish" accessories are single molded ceramic or "cultured marble" items that you purchase and install. This usually involves cutting two to six field tile (the standard tile used) to fit around the installed fixture. You might have to cut a hole in the wall and use some silicone caulk; but that's usually the extent of it.

As you can see from the image, a tile niche demands far more cutting, fitting, and finish (grouting) finesse. This fixture took the place of four 12 x 12 field tiles; each of these had to be carefully cut (last) to fit around the indented area. All tiles used in the niche follow the grout lines for the containing wall. Notice how critical the placement of the niche within the field tile is, in this case.

Add them up, then: there are 24 distinct cut tiles used in this installation. (That's more than 24 cuts, since some tile pieces required two cuts.) The picture-frame border you see was composed of bull-nosed edging tiles, with the eased edge facing inward. This prompted eight mitered cuts which had to be carefully fitted.

Grouting an inset tile fixture is more difficult than finishing around a protruding soapdish, too. More care has to be taken with the original fit and with the grouting itself, since every joint shows. This is not a place to be "off just a little"!

You might ask, "why bother with all this extra effort?" The answer appears just below the subhead for this post, and is worth a thousand more words.

DIY tile pic for week of Mar 16 2009

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved
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See this photos like this featured along with all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on the new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY tile pic that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your picture, I'll link to your blog or website. ~Jim

DIY Tile Pic of the Week: Cottage backsplash

Nostalgic cottage-style tile backsplash uses "subway" tiles and more:

 

This week's project was one that could indeed be completed by a DIYer on a weekend. It's a classic cottage design using "subway" tile (note the offset layout) in two sizes and colors.

The tan tile in 5 by 5 squares forms a visual 5" backsplash. The same color is reflected in the top band (cut to size on site). These tan tiles ground the wall area and frame the off-white subway tile mid-section, creating a three-dimensional effect.

See the small inset tiles in beige? Those are pears, apples, and grapes. This adds to the texture and depth of the stove's backdrop. Using fruit, rather than a more abstract design, makes for a homey feel. This is Gramma's Kitchen, for sure. (Literally, in this case.)

Later, the homeowner will paint the surrounding cabinets using both colors from the tile to follow-through with this theme. Since both hues are neutral, all sorts of bright-color possibilities are open for accessorizing.

At just under thirteen square feet, this job budgets at well under $1,000 and is easily completed in less than ten hours total work time (one weekend is best). Tools required include a wetsaw (rental widely available), and the proper size trowel (per adhesive manufacturer's instructions).

Notice how the mixture of three different tile sizes really makes this difference in this small job?

DIY tile pic for week of Feb 22 2009

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved
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See this photos like this featured along with all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on the new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY tile pic that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your picture, I'll link to your blog or website. ~Jim

DIY Tile Pic of the Week: Natural stone shower walls

Walk-in shower uses natural stone squares in 6 by 6

This 44" by 32" shower, completed just before the New Year, features slate tiles from Home Depot. Grout lines are 3/16", to showcase each tile.

Natural stone is one of the more difficult products to install. Each 6" by 6" piece is unique. Thickness, especially, varies quite a bit - from nearly 1/2" to barely more than 1/8". Some tiles aren't exactly square, and others have one or more "missing" corners. Proper installation calls for careful attention to sizing, spacing, orientation, and color/texture.

This is a great way to express your individuality. No two installers will put these tiles together the same way, so even "identical" projects won't be. Some slates are very jazzy, while others much less interesting. Deciding how to showcase the fancier ones makes all the difference.

This wall material should be sealed prior to installation, for best results. Grout loves to stick in the nooks and crannies of any natural stone tile. For a wet area like this, sealer is even more important. Because they don't have the typical glasslike finish of ceramic or porcelain tile, stone tiles are more difficult to keep clean.

Are the results - a beautiful and unique design - worth the extra effort and maintenance? That's a personal choice; only you can decide for yourself.

DIY tile pic for week of Feb 12 2009

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved
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See this photo featured along with all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on the new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY tile pic that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your picture, I'll link to your blog or website.

DIY Tile Tip of the Week #4

Buy clearance tile to save money:

I love ceramic tile, but it sure can be expensive. There's such an incredible price range, from about a dollar per square foot to $50 a foot and more. I'm a cheapskate at heart, so I've never paid full price for tile I've installed in my house.

Did you know that most tile retailers have Clearance Tile on hand regularly? With so many tile choices, these smaller stores don't usually stock much tile. It's all special-ordered from larger wholesalers. So what happens when orders get cancelled, or don't get picked up? What about when customers return a box or two that turned out to be "extra"? That's how tile clearance land happens. It's just too expensive to ship heavy tile back for credit most of the time.

This same "we don't want to ship it back" attitude is true for some tile installers, too. We have a huge rack filled with orphaned boxes of tile in the shop I work for. This tile can be bought for pennies on the dollar.

Even the big box stores like Lowes and Home Depot sometimes offer deep discounts on their ceramic tile inventories. When they discontinue a style and get down to just a few boxes, they want that tile GONE. You have to be careful that there's enough square footage to cover your project, but the savings are major.

What could you do with just a box or two of tile you find deeply discounted?

• A fireplace surround


• A bathroom accent area over a vanity


• A small foyer - mix and match for a larger foyer


• A fancy bathroom vanity top


• A cool tile inlay coffee table


• A small section of backsplash for your kitchen, maybe just behind the stove

With an open mind and a sharp eye you can find some great bargains on formerly-expensive tile for your next project. Or find some interesting tile first and dream up a project to fit. Let your imagination run wild with really cheap tile!

This is Tip #4, Jan 29 2009

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved
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See this tip [coming soon], and all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on a brand new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY Tile Tip that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your tip, I'll link to your blog or website.

DIY Tile Tip of the Week #3

MIX TILE SIZES for great designs:

Ceramic tile comes in a myriad of sizes and shapes, yet most tile projects use a single size - usually square - in a plain grid pattern. You can spice up your next ceramic tile design by mixing small tiles within a field of larger tiles.

This isn't rocket science for interior design; it's done all the time by professionals. No reason you can't adopt their visual strategies to make your DIY tile job look fantastic.

Choose your main "field" tile for base color and coverage. A medium-sized floor area, for instance, might best use 12" square tiles of a pastel earth tone. This selection provides lots of design flexibility. Now choose an accent color in a smaller tile to add visual flair to an otherwise ordinary floor.

Small tiles can be added as inset borders or as linear stripes, or positioned like diamonds (see photo) where four square tiles meet. Remember that ceramic tile last for decades, so be careful about choosing colors that dictate future decor choices too stringently.

The important thing is choose pizazz over plain. If you're going to the trouble to lay tile that will last a half century, you might as well make your project provocative! Or at least interesting. Have a look at some of the pictures displayed here (sidebar, for instance) to see examples of jazzy tile designs of all sorts.

This is Tip #3, Jan 16 2009

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved
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See this tip [coming soon], and all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on a brand new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY Tile Tip that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your tip, I'll link to your blog or website.

DIY Tile Pic of the Week: Tiny tile floor

Foyer powder room floor is small but eye-catching

Our very latest DIY tile job was one of the smallest floors I've ever done, for our brand new powder room. We used left-over ceramic tiles from a couple previous jobs, blending them for a unique effect.

With less than 16 square feet to cover, this project called for simplicity. We hoped to achieve a touch of elegance, while blending this new tile floor into our existing tile foyer. Each area uses shades of brown and tan, and features large (12" square or 13" square) tiles accented with much smaller tiles.

The foyer pattern uses two accent tile sizes in a symmetrical diamond pattern - much too busy for the new powder room. We thought at first to make a basic inset border using the brown tiles. Even this was too much, so we opted for an asymmetric "L"-shaped design instead. Bull-nosed base ("splash") tiles in a shade between the two colors used brought it all together.

The wall tiles you can see in the picture are the same color and type as the large floor tiles, but much smaller. We used the minimum width grout lines for those, and chose "alpine white" for grout, to compliment rather than match the floor's "mocha" grout selection.

The finished job has a regal Tudor feel to it, without being overbearing. What do you think? Good choice, or still over the top for such a tiny room?

DIY tile pic for week of Jan 5 2009

copyright 2009 - all rights reserved
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See this photo [coming soon], and all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on a brand new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY tile pic that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your picture, I'll link to your blog or website.

DIY Tile Tip of the Week #2

TAMP YOUR TILE:

Your DIY tile job will turn out better if you use an old tileman's trick: tamp your tile down with a rubber mallet. This is especially important for large tiles of 12" square and up. Big tiles can trap air underneath and fail to achieve a good, solid set into your adhesive base.

Large or small, all tile jobs can benefit from a gentle tamping. The vibration promotes excellent adhesion, and the act of "beating in" your tiles will help you get them level with each other.

Use caution, however, when smacking your tiles with a rubber mallet. I recently smashed a perfectly good tile into three jagged pieces when I got a bit too enthusiastic with the mallet. Be sure to use a consistent tamping pattern. My choice is middle, corner, corner, corner, corner. You'll find what works best for you by trial and error as you start your tile job.

Happy tamping!

This is Tip #2, Jan 6 2009

copyright 2008 - all rights reserved
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See this tip [coming soon], and all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on a brand new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY Tile Tip that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your tip, I'll link to your blog or website.

DIY Tile Pic of the Week: Faux Mosaic

Foyer Faux Mosaic Tile creates dramatic entry

Helium executive Andrew Ressler sent me this photo from his most recent DIY tile project.

He wrote: " The tile I bought from Home Depot. I put it on over cement board also from Home Depot. I used a color-matched grout to really make it look nice. I used a 3/16" grout spacing. I think it looks better than the 1/8" that the store recommended.

"I put two coats of sealer on the grout just to be sure. The tile was porcelain and didn't need a sealer.

"The biggest challenge was cutting the tile on the edges were it met a wood floor. I didn't want to cheat with an overlaid piece of wood. Just one more thing to trip over. So I used a tile saw that allowed you to move the tile tray to get more accurate cuts than one were you move the tile over the tray."

DIY tile pic for week of Jan 1 2009

copyright 2008 - all rights reserved _______________________________________________

See this photo [coming soon], and all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on a brand new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY tile pic that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your tip, I'll link to your blog or website. Happy New Year!

DIY Tile Tip of the Week

USE SPACERS:

For perfect layout every time, with uniform spacing of your tiles throughout, use Tavy Tile Spacers to separate tiles. These simple and reusable plastic tile spacers help you achieve professional-quality results on floors and walls.

Choose grout line sizes from 1/16" to 3/8." Different sizes use different colors to help prevent mistakes. Tavy Spacers are sold at Lowes and most pro-level tile retailers. Bags of about 100 (plenty for most jobs) sell for just under five dollars.

This is Tip #1, Jan 1 2009

copyright 2008 - all rights reserved
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See this tip, and all sorts of other related ceramic tile information and articles on a brand new DIY Tile Zone at Helium.com.

If you have a DIY Tile Tip that you'd like to share, please leave a Comment here. If I use your tip, I'll link to your blog or website. Happy New Year!